TANK | Must de Cartier | Vermeil | Manual Wind, Tricolore (c. late 1970's)

A NOTE FROM THE CURATOR

When Cartier launched the Must de Cartier line in the mid-1970s, it was nothing short of revolutionary. For the first time, Cartier offered a watch not made in precious metals, instead capping sterling silver in 20 microns of 18k gold plating (gold Vermeil). This bold move made Cartier design accessible to a new audience, without sacrificing elegance.

The example here is particularly desirable: the manual wind Tank Vermeil, a rarer variant compared to the many quartz versions that followed. Its dial is the star of the show...an unusual and highly collectible "tricolore" design blending yellow, rose, and ivory tones. This radiant dial offers just the right balance of refinement and character

Powered by the Cartier Caliber 72 (based on ETA 2512), this watch speaks to a moment in Cartier’s history when experimentation and tradition merged to create something totally new for Cartier. For collectors of the Tank, or those who simply want a piece of Cartier’s transformative era, this is a superb example.

- Brent

CASE: Measuring in at a classic 23.5 x 30.8mm with a 6.8mm thickness, this stunning  case is made of a Sterling silver core with 20-micron 18k yellow gold plating (gold Vermeil). Excellent condition with sharp hallmarks on the caseback, and only light overall wear from modest use. There is some very light wear of the gold-plating on the left side of the case. 

DIAL & HANDS: Rare and beautifully preserved tricolore design (yellow, rose, and ivory tones). Slight (almost invisible) patina fade at the dial's bottom around the "swiss" mark, and lower edges. Must de Cartier pad-printed signature and Double-C logo remails a sharp black, prominent, and untarnished. Classic blued hands retain their sharp presence.

MOVEMENT: Cartier Caliber 72 (ETA 2512 base), manual wind. Freshly Serviced by our watchmaker in January of 2026. 

CROWN: Mounted with Cartier’s iconic blue stone cabochon. Stone flawless and un-chipped.

CRYSTAL: Sapphire crystal in excellent condition, with no major distractions. 

STRAP: Paired with a black patent genuine alligator leather strap showing close to no wear, aside from some mild stretch on one of the notches from the pin placement. The strap is fitted with a matching gold-toned tang buckle.

ACCESSORIES: Watch only (no box or papers)