Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil | Manual Wind, Tri-Colour Dial (c. 1980's)

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When Cartier launched the Must de Cartier line in the mid-1970s, it was nothing short of revolutionary. For the first time, Cartier offered a watch not made in precious metals, instead capping sterling silver in 20 microns of 18k gold plating (gold Vermeil). This bold move made Cartier design accessible to a new audience, without sacrificing elegance.

The example here is particularly desirable: the manual wind Tank Vermeil, a rarer variant compared to the many quartz versions that followed. Its dial is the star of the show...an unusual and highly collectible tri-colour design blending yellow, rose, and white gold tones. This radiant dial offers just the right balance of refinement and character, with a touch of vintage patina at the center that reminds us of its 1980s–early ’90s heritage.

Powered by the Cartier Caliber 72 (based on ETA 2512), this watch speaks to a moment in Cartier’s history when experimentation and tradition merged to create something enduringly iconic. For collectors of the Tank, or those who simply want a piece of Cartier’s transformative era, this is a superb example.

CASE: Measuring in at a classic 20.5 x 28mm with a 7.5mm thickness, this stunning  case is made of a Sterling silver core with 20-micron 18k yellow gold plating (gold Vermeil). Excellent condition with only light wear from modest use. Some faint wear visible at the edges of the lower lugs

DIAL & HANDS: Rare tri-colour design (yellow, rose, and white gold tones). Slight patina fade at the centre and edges with a unique spotting patina, enhancing vintage character. Cartier signature text shows slight fading. Classic blued hands retain their sharp presence

MOVEMENT: Cartier Caliber 72 (ETA 2512 base), manual wind. Service history unknown but running well

CROWN: Signed with Cartier’s iconic blue stone cabochon. Stone flawless and un-chipped.

CRYSTAL: Original sapphire crystal with some light surface scratches.

STRAP: Mounted on an authentic dark burgundy exotic Cartier leather strap, showing gentle wear consistent with use, and fitted on a matching Cartier buckle. 

ACCESSORIES: Watch only (no box or papers)

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