Vintage Baume & Mercier Ladies’ 18k White Gold Cocktail Watch, Diamond Set (c. 1970’s)

A NOTE FROM THE CURATOR

Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has a rich history of blending traditional Swiss watchmaking with elegant, jewellery-inspired design. Particularly noteworthy are the brand's ladies' creations, dating back to the Art Deco era and continuing through the 1970s and 1980’s with imaginative collections such as the Stardust, Galaxie, and the Avant Garde, and several other ladies dress watches. It’s in these two decades in particular that the brand embraced the era's appetite for luxurious, integrated gold watches.   

This exceptional Boutique Edition beautifully captures the spirit of the time, pairing a dazzling diamond-set dial and bezel with an exquisitely crafted, braided rope integrated gold bracelet, a design reminiscent of luxury contemporaries such as Piaget.

In fact, many don’t know that Baume & Mercier was actually owned by Piaget from 1964 until 1988, before both brands came under Cartier's control. During this period, along with Piaget, Baume & Mercier embraced many of the era's most iconic luxury design cues, creating watches that blurred the line between fine jewellery and traditional horology. This exceptional piece is a wonderful expression of that philosophy, from a time when a ladies' watch was as much a work of exquisite jewellery as it was a precision timepiece.

What makes this particular example especially compelling is its remarkable condition. Intricate gold bracelets are notoriously susceptible to wear and distortion if not cared for or stored properly, yet this example retains exceptional definition, brilliance, and firmness. Coupled with its extraordinary diamond-set dial and bezel, and single-family provenance, it is a wonderfully preserved expression of 1970's Swiss jewellery watchmaking.

Happy hunting,
- Brent

THE BRILLIANT DETAILS

This rare and exquisite 1970’s ladies' Baume & Mercier comes to us directly from the family of its original owner, who treasured and meticulously cared for it as a cherished heirloom. Beautifully crafted in solid 18K white gold, this exceptional timepiece features a spectacular diamond pavé dial and diamond-set bezel, complemented by an intricately crafted, integrated white gold bracelet.

The extraordinary diamond dial is a particular highlight, pavé bead-set with 68 single-cut diamonds totalling approximately 0.68 carats. Unlike conventional diamond hour markers, here the entire dial is adorned with diamonds, creating a brilliant, textured surface that, when moving through light, totally comes alive with a captivating sparkle - an effect that these photographs hardly capture (I'm embarrassed to say). 

The bezel is adorned with 32 prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 0.96 carats. Together, the dial and bezel feature 100 diamonds totalling approximately 1.64 carats, graded with an average of VS clarity and F–G colour, as documented in the accompanying independent gemological appraisal.

The diamonds may be front and centre, but for those who appreciate fine gold work, the most impressive detail may be the integrated 18K white gold braided rope bracelet. This very rare double twisted rope patterned finish makes this watch a true show-stopper. the bracelet is crisp, vibrant, and beautifully preserved. Remarkably, the bracelet and case appear unpolished, and hardly worn, retaining their original definition and truly meticulous craftsmanship.

Measuring 17.5cm (6.89 inches) in length, the watch is best suited to a wrist no larger than approximately 16cm (6.29 inches).

Inside is a reliable Swiss ETA calibre 2512 hand-wound mechanical movement, serviced while under the care previous owner in May 2025 - the movement is running beautifully.

CONDITION

This exceptional Baume & Mercier is presented in fabulous pre-owned vintage condition.

The diamond-set dial, bezel, and white gold bracelet are immaculat, remarkably clean, crisp, and vibrant. All original diamonds are present, intact, and firmly in place.

The case and bracelet are immaculate, with deep, crisp, and untouched serial engravings and gold hallmarks. Only minor superficial surface wear is visible on the caseback, consistent with careful ownership and wear over the past 4-5 decades.

The overall condition is particularly impressive for a vintage gold jewellery watch of this age, especially given the delicate and intricate construction of its integrated bracelet, and diamond-set detailing.

SPECIFICATIONS

• Brand: Baume & Mercier

• Edition: Rare Ladies Boutique Edition

• Era: Circa 1970’s

• Case Material: Solid 18K White Gold

• Case Dimensions: 25mm side to side (excluding crown) × 22.3mm top to bottom

• Thickness: 6.8mm

• Dial: Original diamond-set dial, pavé bead-set with 68 single-cut diamonds (approx. 0.68ct)

• Bezel: 32 prong-set round brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.96ct)

• Total Diamond Weight: Approximately 1.64 carats

• Diamond Quality: VS clarity, F–G colour (appraised)

• Movement: Swiss ETA Calibre 2512, hand-wound mechanical

• Service History: Serviced May 2025 by the previous owner

• Bracelet: Integrated braided rope bracelet in solid 18K white gold

• Total Watch Length: 17.5cm / 6.89 inches

• Recommended Wrist Size: Approximately 16cm / 6.29 inches

• Clasp: Integrated hinged clasp, stamped 18K

• Total Watch Weight: 63.34 grams (including movement and diamonds)

• Condition: Excellent vintage condition; appears unpolished

• Documentation: Independent gemological appraisal dated May 4, 2026, and service receipt dated May, 2025.