A Note from the Curator
Produced by Gallet and retailed in the 1970s by Jaquet Droz, then part of a fascinating Swiss watch conglomerate whose history is a story in itself (Stephen Foskett wrote this excellent article on the subject), this exceptionally rare “Flying Officer” chronograph represents one of the most historically important models in Gallet’s aviation lineage.
Worn by WWII pilots, and also famously owned and worn by then Senator Senator Harry S. Truman, the Flying Officer would go on to become one of Gallet’s most recognized and celebrated tool watches.
As the first chronograph to incorporate a “world timer” function, examples such as this evolved into highly capable pilly tools, allowing the wearer not only to measure elapsed time, but also to track multiple time zones through the rotating bezel and world time scale.
Remarkably, only two Jaquet Droz retailed examples have appeared in the collector’s market in recent years (this being one of them), making this Jaquet Droz signed dial an exceptionally elusive configuration.
Beyond its rarity, what makes this watch especially compelling is how beautifully preserved it remains. The warm, evenly aged tritium lume, crisp dial printing, and near mint case condition giving it the appearance of a watch that somehow escaped the hard life most aviation tools of the era endured.
Happy hunting,
- Brent
Condition Report & Contents
The watch is presented in truly excellent overall condition, particularly impressive for a purpose-built tool chronograph from this era.
Dial & Hands: The matte black dial remains exceptionally well preserved with crisp printing throughout. The tritium lume present on both the dial and hands has aged evenly into a rich warm orange-yellow tone, adding significant character while remaining highly attractive and consistent across the watch.
Bezel: The red and black paint filled recesses on the rotating bezel remain flawless without any wear or degradation. The bezel rotates smoothly, with just the right amount of resistance.
Case: The stainless steel case shows only very light surface wear, wit’s some light scuffs visible on the lugs, but overall presents in near mint condition with strong edges and excellent overall proportions. Remnants of a previously-placed protective film remains on the screw-down caseback.
Movement: The manually wound Lemania Cal. 149 movement is currently running well, though service history is unknown. A service is recommended at the buyer’s discretion. Timegrapher readings show a daily rate ranging approximately from +18 to +57 seconds per day with an average amplitude of ~277° across all positions.
Strap: The watch is fitted on a brown calfskin leather strap with a generic buckle.
Specifications
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Manufacturer: Gallet, retailed by Jaquet Droz
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Year: Circa 1975
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Reference / Model: Flying Officer World Time Chronograph
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Material: Stainless Steel
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Movement: Lemania Cal. 149 Manual-Wind Chronograph, 17 Jewels
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Functions: Chronograph, World Time Bezel, Multi-Time Zone Tracking
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Dial: Black Dial with Tritium Lume
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Crystal: Acrylic
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Strap: Brown Calfskin Leather Strap
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Case Size: 36.5mm Diameter
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Signed: Jaquet Droz Signed Dial, Gallet & Co Signed Case
